Is the trend for smaller watches here to stay?

When men’s timepieces first moved from their pockets to their wrists, the evolution was driven by practical considerations rather than aesthetic ones. From the early models worn in the trenches of World War 1 to the iconic pieces from the 1950s like the Rolex Explorer, for much of the 20th century, the preference was for wristwatches no bigger than 36mm.

When did size start to matter?

As time went on, watches went from being merely functional tools to sought-after fashion accessories and, by the 1990s, timepieces had become status symbols. Oversized wrist watches took off, with stars like Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger flaunting huge timekeepers from Panerai and Audemars Piguet.

The enormous dimensions (52,5 millimeters) of the Royal Oak Offshore T3 Chronograph sported by Schwarzenegger in Terminator 3 helped push the trend toward ever-larger watches in the 2000s and 2010s. Watches measuring upwards of 45mm became increasingly in vogue, with brands like Breitling, IWC, Omega and Rolex upsizing to satisfy consumer demand.

What are the signs that the tide is turning?

The primary indication that more petite men’s watches may be coming back into fashion is that most major brands have released models with much smaller watch faces in the last couple of years, and these seem to be gaining popularity.

In 2021, Rolex launched its latest generation Explorer - at a scaled-down size of 36mm. A reduction in size of three millimeters in such an iconic model certainly seems to be a statement, as it’s rare to see Rolex create a design change and then walk it back a few years later.

The new 36mm model is a return to the original, launched in 1953 and worn by Sir Edmund Hilary on his first ascent of Mount Everest in May that year - suggesting that the popularity of vintage looks is also coming back. The fact that UFC Champion Conor McGregor was snapped last summer wearing a 36mm Rolex Day-Date is also a sign that the trend for famous hard men flaunting big timepieces may be over.

Even Panerai, famous for its larger models, launched three new Panerai Luminor Marina Quaranta models in 2021 each measuring 40mm – which is tiny by their standards.

The IWC classic Big Pilot also got a little less big in 2021. The case’s diameter has been reduced from 46,2mm to 43mm. It has also been slimmed vertically by 2mm, making for a very different wearing experience than its predecessor. Although it's still a large timepiece, the reduction to 43mm is significant.

Luxury watch company Zenith is one brand that has been explicit about turning its attention to smaller timepieces. The company’s chief executive recently revealed that he wants to make “beautiful watches that can be worn by either men or women,” with a strategic focus on Asia, where a new generation of consumers is popularising unisex fashion. As a result, 80 percent of their collection will soon feature cases sized between 37mm and 41mm - what he calls “the sweet spot.”

Just a phase or a major change?

All things considered, it seems that the recent trend for smaller watch faces could be more than just a phase and not just because oversized timepieces have had their time in the spotlight.

Over the last five years, there has been a boom in the vintage market, where many of the items being snapped up by collectors are those classic, under 40mm pieces. This is bound to have a knock-on effect on the kinds of models first-time buyers want to wear too.

Linked to second-hand sales is the watch industry’s increasing focus on sustainability. With all the major luxury watch brands now trying new methods to reduce their environmental impact, it seems inevitable that downsizing watch cases - thereby using fewer materials - will increasingly become part of that strategy.

Perhaps the most significant factor that could make more modestly sized watch cases the standard in the coming years is the societal shift towards gender-neutral styles.

In a much-discussed article for Hodinkee last year, watch expert Cara Barrett argued that watches should be unisex, and there are a lot of signs that this opinion is being taken on board by the big brands.

Brian Duffy, chief executive of the Watches of Switzerland Group of retailers, recently told the Financial Times: “There’s no doubt that from a consumer viewpoint there’s a complete convergence of gender,” he said. “Historically, watches were created for professions that were dominated by men. But life has changed. Now, we have women pilots, racing drivers, submariners and so on. The gender relevance has diluted.”